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Press Release October 21-2009

 

DENIM: Decadence or Decency?

The ubiquity of a Social Phenomenon

 By Alex Angelino

  Los Angeles 06/30/2010


 
       What is the American fascination with jeans all about? We gobble up a third of the world's production of denim material, generating an annual $15 billion in business with over 5 % growth per year.
 
       Yet, syndicated columnist George Will recently called denim "an obnoxious use of freedom." He commended Daniel Akst, suggesting that The Wall Street Journal writer be awarded a Presidential Medal of Freedom for "summoning Americans to soul-searching about the plaggue of that ubiquitous fabric, which is symptomatic of deep disorders in the national psyche."
 
       Akst wrote in The Journal that the jean material represents "modern trend toward undifferentiated dressing, in which we all strive to look equally shabby." 
 
 Where it all started
 
       The story of denim goes back to the 1600's, when Dongaree, rough clothing from India, was traded by Portuguese sailors en route to Europe. The fabric caught-on in Genovese, Italy, which spawned the 'jean' name. Soon after, the jean fabric Serge de Nime was produced in Nimes, France, and the term 'denim' was born.
    
      The US denim story begins during the California Gold Rush, but did not catch on until 1873, when Jacob Davis of Reno, Nevada, along with the famed Levi Straus, patented the blue jean riveted pants. Straus began to manufacture the jeans in San Francisco, primarily for workers. 

         At the turn of the Century, jeans were worn by American men who performed heavyworker wearing denim jeans labor; the Wrangler company forming in the 1930's to manufacture denim work clothing for those who rode the range. In the 1940's, farmers adapted the fabric to their wardrobe, and during World War II, it was used as the material for US navy and Coast Guard uniforms. As American soldiers traveled overseas, citizens of other countries had their first glimpse of denim, and even though it was eventually eliminated by the Navy, it was still so closely identified with American culture that it was featured in the US pavilion exhibit at the 1958 World's Fair in Brussels.

        Adopted by rebellious youth in the 1950's, denim transitioned into the preferred fabric of the hippies in the 1960's, the punk movement of the 1970's, and hip hop generation in the 1980's. It was then that designers began making jeans 'fashionable' for any occasion, and the decades-long ban on denim at schools as well as upscale hotels, restaurants and country clubs, finally came to an end. 

        Denim, then, has adapted to the needs and whims of the human race like no other fabric, evolving from clothes for the working man to a symbol of youthful rebellion! and fin ally, to stardom. 
 
 Why Jeans?
 
       The secret of success for jeans lies in its color, texture, and ability to comfort both the body and the soul in a challenging world.
 
       It is well known in the design space that when it comes to the visual experience, texture and color are highly persuasive mediums capable of stimulating emotion and feelings. Blue, man's favorite color, is the color of the sky and the ocean, symbolizing youth spirituality, truth, peace, dependability, sincerity, and stability. Kim Kardasian wearing modern fashion jeansTexture is the structure, appearance, and feel of a woven fabric.
 
       Jeans fabric is cotton twill with dyed blue warp (vertical) yarn  and horizontal weft undyed natural yarn. The result is a fabric that  appears dark blue on its face and almost white on its backside. Although the warp yarn is dipped in dye several times, the core of the yarn stays white. This imperfection, with repeated wearing and wash, begins to fade out, giving jeans the uneven, faded and stressed look. The tears, marks and fading draw a history of the wearer's life. This has made jeans into an icon of rebellion and non-conformity. Its cool, unevenly faded look also brings a calming feeling with a soft touch.
 
       Another important property of denim texture is that it takes adornment, embellishment and accessory so well - far better than its closest cousins, khaki and chino. This gives designers and individuals the ability to personalize their denim garments, and helps in the modern world to construct personal identity. 

The national psyche
 
       Our appearance says a lot about our personality, feeling and intellect, and the fact that we spend so much time, money and effort into making denim our fabric of choice in this country does say quite a lot.

        But what does it say? Akst sees jeans as symptomatic of deep disorders in the national psyche. I do not disagree with him, but as a designer who has created thousands of fabrics and textures for the past twenty-odd years, I believe this disorder emanates from the deep problems in the social condition and social structure of the United States when it comes to justice, money, and power.
 
          From the youth rebellion of the 50's to the saggers of today, denim has been the fabric of choice for virtually all generations, and it's been used as an outlet to display rebellion, spirituality, vigorous and passivity. Indeed, the story of this American icon and its roll in American popular culture is undeniable. With the existing social and economic conditions as well as a bleak looking future, denim is going to be fabric of choice. Denim, then, with its unique properties, provides a psychological healing as well as the stimulation needed to feel good, inspired and hopeful for tomorrow.   
 



Fashion: A Reflecting Rip In The Fabric Of Our Society (Angelino.us)

 

LOS ANGELES, CA October 21, 2009  - The trends in fashion today mirror a world in turmoil where injustice,  social inequality , environmental peril, and economic woes have engendered feelings of frustration and even hopelessness.

As a  fashion clothing designer , Alex Angelino has long been cognizant of the relationship between the inner emotions and clothing choices. Putting together an outfit to wear involves a complex thought process of both the conscience and subconscious mind.  Color, texture, materials and style are primary elements, as are the fit and proportions of the garments.   In fact, cut and proportion are the two main factors when it comes to expressing oneself as funny, serious, victorious, indifferent, sexy, conservative, etc.

 

In pre-industrial societies, clothes often reflected occupation and/or religious affiliation, as well as standing in the  social structure , but with the advent of ready-made goods in the late Nineteenth Century, consumers began to have options.  As Diana Crane writes in her compelling book  Fashion and its Social Agenda,  as “the construction of personal identity outside the workplace became increasingly important,”   clothing became “a major tool” to do so, “offering a wide range of choices for the expression of lifestyles or sub-cultural identities” as well as of the individual's emotional state.

Crane continues by offering an analysis of the blue jean as signaling rebellion, adding that when blue jeans are worn with white T-shirt and  black leather jacket , the rebellious connotations are accentuated. When the punk movement emerged, such elements as metal studs took the theme further, as did safety pins struck into the ear and eyebrows. As Crane writes: “Abuse of the body and clothing expressed derisive and nihilistic attitudes toward establishment values.”

Indeed, generations express themselves with their looks, make-up, hairstyle and accessories, and since the Hippie movement in the Sixties, Jeans have clearly been a tool to express rebelliousness. Today's Hip Hop and teenager trends are no different, the younger generation adding a twist by wearing  jeans below the waist at a sagging level. The sloppy look that results has angered and worried parents and school officials, leading to the passing of ordinances in various cities around the country which ban the wearing of low-slung pants and fine those who ignore the code. This is a violation of civil and constitutional rights.  As a clothing designer, Alex believes these young people are not only making a fashion statement, they are clearly making a social and  political statement  also.

Certainly, something has gone terribly wrong with our justice system, Alex explains, which lately seems more like an ‘injustice system' where justice can be purchased.  Attorneys often

turn a blind eye or even facilitate pay-offs to judges.   Alex himself was a victim of such a scheme. His personal court battle has had a profound effect on his clothing choices and creativity.  Formerly, Alex was in suit and tie every day and he was designing formal clothing. But his bitter court experience, affecting him emotionally, shifted his attention away from textures and motifs that represent establishment values and more toward those that represent the anti-establishment. Alex eventually ceased wearing and designing suits altogether, instead wearing and designing jeans.  Alex now uses textures, motifs, and styles that comfort him and express his inner emotions.

Looking sloppy by wearing  sagging pants  satisfies the need to express an objection to what is happening today and to express doubt about the challenges which lie ahead personally and globally.   This not only pertains to clothing, but also to contemporary  art, music, dance, painting, etc.    In fact,  as our  social justice system  has declined in strength and moral backbone, society's contemporary art has grown more aggressive, artists voicing anger.

The  discussion of what to do about art and  fashion trends  should never focus on legislating codes and ordinances against the wearers or the artists, but rather on the  social conditions  which need to change in order for people to feel more hopeful and ultimately to express themselves differently.  Perhaps it is time for everyone to be responsible and to make our voices heard by expressing ideas based on knowledge and wisdom. For more information please contact Alex Angelino at 213-748-2440 and by visiting   http://www.angelino.us.

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As a fashion clothing designer, Alex Angelino has long been cognizant of the relationship between the inner emotions and clothing choices. ... more ....
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